Tuesday, February 20, 2018

Making The Unquiet Dead markers for AoS

With the launch of Legions of Nagash Games Workshop has given Death a new lease on life (har har). It also brings us the best hint of what Slaanesh has been up to so far. Good times (maybe too good) are to be had by all. In Legions of Nagash the rather wonky Age of Sigmar summoning system is replaced with something more workable and fun. An ability called The Unquiet Dead is part of this. Every army that belongs to one of the Legions of Nagash has it. It gives the player four gravesite markers that help reinforce and regenerate certain units in his army. More important than game mechanics (as far as I'm concerned): it gives you an excuse to get creative with hobby materials. In short I made these for use in my games.

As a Legion of Nagash general I get to slam down my own graveyards on every battlefield.
At launch Age of Sigmar had an all powerful summoning system. Basically every wizard could summon troops. It helped idiots make up 'game-breaking' scenario's where a single unit like Nagash would summon an enormous army (quite narrative come to think of it). Back among normal gamers (I said humbly) it forced you to try and get within range of wizards to block them from summoning reinforcements. Difficult, occasionally fun, often frustrating. The biggest downside was that it made it very hard to finish a battle in an evening (as new troops would keep coming into the fray). Death armies, Flesheater Courts and Seraphon (formerly Lizardmen) where the most summoning intensive armies. With the points system in General's Handbook 2016 this ended. Players had to reserve points to pay for the units as they were summoned. I haven't seen much summoning after that. Why reserve points and trust to die rolls and luck if you can just field a unit?

Enemies may moan about the dead returning to life, but they can't complain about the look of the markers (I think).
The new Legions of Nagash Battletome changes this system (unfortunately only for the legions not for the Flesheaters or Seraphon). Some units like Skeletons, Zombies and Black Knights have the Summonable keyword. Summoners like vampires and necromancers have an ability to heal and replenish a number (according to their power) of summonable units every turn. These gravemarkers also help reinforce your summonable units every turn. They also give an ability to return destroyed units to the table and allow you to 'deep strike' from the grave. The last two assume the enemy hasn't succeeded in blocking off a nine inch area around the markers. In short there are plenty of reasons to scratch build four of them.

Step one, cork, sand and bits. Also please ignore the terrible Game Color Black in the background I accidentally took that out of the 'abandoned don't use' paint rack. Vallejo Model Color Black actually dries up black and is a better choice. (I think everything is a better choice than Game Color Black).
I started out with a large round base (60mm). I superglued cork to make the surface uneven (and create the open grave look on one). Gravestones that where part of the (hideous) old skeleton models where used for decoration. After that the bases where sanded with beach sand. After this part I added a grave lid shield to represent a grave lid (how is that for a turnaround!) and added an old Mordheim lantern to the same base. The idea was to give the impression of grave robbers hard at work. One of the bases got a small 'candle altar' (no idea what kit that came from), an old (hideous) skeleton and a book. Skulls from the aptly named 'Citadel Skulls' box where added to all the bases. After that I left the bases to dry.

Airbrushing a few browns helps bases look a bit more realistic.
After the glue was dry I sprayed a German Grey basecoat and followed up by airbrushing Vallejo Tank Brown and Vallejo Dark Earth in patches (model air series). I left this to dry fully.

Drybrushing a bone color helps give the terrain definition. It also gave me a head start on coloring the skulls and bones (these have had a lot more paint added after this drybrush step).
With the basecoats dry, I drybrushed Tyrant Skull all over. I went through the regular wondering about why I buy Citadel 'dry' paints? These paints dry into a gum like putty even with the lids firmly closed. After the drybrush I followed up with an incredibly sloshed on wash of Agrax Earthshade (the more wash the merrier, take your two thin coats and...well you get the picture).

When in doubt, wash it with a lot of Agrax. On top you see a bit of extra sand where I foolishly decided my base needed more sand long after basecoating and painting.
By the time the extreme wash was dry, I overbrushed all skulls with Ushabti Bone followed by (a bit more subtle) Screaming Skull and finally Pallid Wych Flesh. The gravestones where all painted Stormvermin Fur and then (while wet) overbrushed with a Stormvermin Fur/Vallejo Dead White mix. I quickly dried the paint using a blow dryer and added reasonably subtle recess washes of Athonian Camoshade to the gravestones, using a q-tip to remove/spread excesses. To get some color in I added yellowish static grass to all the markers. To finish off I painted the edge of the bases Vallejo German Grey. I'll get to the details on the bases on separate pictures.

Base one, a straightforward collection of gravestones. 
This is the simplest base of the lot. I added small dabs of Seraphim Sepia to the skulls. This looks a bit dabbed on in this picture. In real life it is quite ok (in my humble opinion).

Here some grave robbers where hard at work plying their trade.
This scene depicts a grave recently opened by grave robbers. I intentionally left extra mud free around one edge of the grave. The wood of the lantern and coffin lid where painted Steel Legion Drab, washed with Agrax Earthshade and highlighted with Talarn Sand. The lantern was painted Leadbelcher, washed with Nuln Oil and (after drying) with Agrax Earthshade. Then I added an Ironbreaker highlight. I finished off by painting the lit part Averland Sunset, washing with Seraphim Sepia and Agrax Earthshade and highlighting Flash Gitz Yellow.

The failed necromancer rests beneath his altar. I tried lettering 'Liber Necris' on the book, but ended up repainting it black. Rule #1: Always try new, difficult things. Rule #2: Use creative curses when you fail while executing Rule #1. 
I call this base 'the failed necromancer' it features a corpse holding a black book (Vallejo Model Black with an attempt at blending to The Fang). The silverwork on the book was painted Leadbelcher, Nuln Oil, Stormhost Silver. The candles where painted with Tallarn Sand and highlighted by adding Ushabti bone. I washed it with Seraphim Sepia. After drying I added a recess wash of Seraphim Sepia and after that (to get more extreme) a recess wash of Agrax Earthshade. The wicks where painted black.

I should find interesting new projects to use this rust technique on.
I decided to practice my variant of this tutorial on painting rust on the shields of this base. I started from Leadbelcher and washed it with Agrax Earthshade. After drying, I added slightly watered down dabs of Typhus Corrosion. I then made a wash out of Squig Orange by using Liquitex Matte Medium and water. I added this to bits of the metal. After drying (blow dryer time) I added some Troll Slayer Orange to the mix and dabbed spots with this. After even more time to dry I painted raised areas with a fresh layer of Leadbelcher. In the end I added a subtle last wash of Agrax Earthshade to tie it all together. A lot of work, but hey it looks really rusty. I really need to find something rusty to paint.

Another dot is added to the bingo card, only eighteen more to go.
Building and painting these markers took little time (one evening building, one evening painting, using lunchtime for washing and airbrushing the larger areas). I am quite happy with the result, and with the short break from painting massed ranks of miniatures. Best of all I get to stamp my Wargame Hobby Bingo card. The 'Build & Paint some accessories themed to match your army. (Wound counters, baggage train, objectives, etc.)' is now officially mine. Muhahaha, hmmm wound counters? No, must paint units first!

Monday, February 19, 2018

Orruk Ardboys can proudly (and loudly) join my Greenskin horde

When I started unpacking my Greenskin project box in September last year (end of post) I expected to put most of it back in the box by the end of the month. Now I can happily state that this didn't happen. This weekend I've managed to finish a last serious bunch of Greenskins waiting for paint. The group on the trail end of my enthusiasm was a mob of twenty metal and plastic Black Orcs Orruk Ardboys. As a member of my local gaming club organised a painting day this weekend, I decided to bring this lot. I figured that getting stuck with these boyz and nothing else to do but chat and paint would work wonders. It did (although I had to finish them up on Sunday).

Two bands of Orruk 'Ardboyz stand ready to kill, maim and destroy.
For those of you counting along, yes it is a group of thirty. A few years ago I painted a group of seven metal and plastic Orruk Ardboys I found in a lot. This unit consisted of a banner bearer, a musician, five dual weapon wielders and three two-handed weapon wielders. This mix of weapons didn't matter in the old rules. Since Black Orcs became Ironjaw Orruk Ardboys, the load-out does matter. With the addition of ten more metal models and a box of plastic models I could split the lot in a unit of ten two-handed weapon wielders and a unit of twenty dual weapon wielders.

I added a last minute dab of Balthasar Gold to the Boss's shoulder pad as I recall having trouble remembering who was in charge in the unit.
Unfortunately the plastic box has not been designed to reflect these choices. The two-handed weapons are in short supply and only fit one of the body stances in the box. I also discovered a number of metal heads had gone missing over time. I solved the missing head problem by using plastic heads from the Black Orc kit, a few from 40K Nobs and a couple of leftover parts from the Orruk Brutes I assembled earlier (not quite up to scale, but it fits well enough). The stances required a bit of extra converting.

I'll write the red stripe on the drummer's helmet off as a mistake.
I rather enjoy sticking as many unhelmed heads in a unit as I have available. It adds character and (hopefully) distracts from the fact that my paintwork for units is a formulaic, conveyor belt type afair (and a bit sloppy). Besides that, nothing screams "I defy death," louder then taking off your helmet on a swords and arrows battlefield.

The head on this Orruk Ardboy is from the Orruk Brute kits, I think it works quite nicely on these models.
Another thing I actually cut of most other models, but allow my Orruks to get away with, is horned helmets. Yes it is a foolish look, but this is not an army of rocket scientists. Having the entire lot compete to see who can add the most (and biggest) horns on their helm, seems like 'just the thing' for Orruks.

I like the bare-headed ork in the back waving his two swords about (on a body actually better suited to holding a two-handed weapon).
As I was gluing the models together I thought the combinations on the plastic models where getting too repetitive. As I was working with metal models as well (where the problem of repetition in models is a bit more acute) I started using bits from all over. A number of these Orruks are wielding 40K swords and axes. All it took was cutting obvious bolts off, and it works fine for a fantasy setting. By the same measure I cut and glued quite a lot of Brute two-handed axe and sword blades to the two-handed weapon wielders to get a bit more variety there.

Off to the right and not quite as visible as I would've liked it is an Orruk with a wonderfully grumpy 40K head. 
One last thing I started doing a few years ago is painting the lower lip of the Orruks a skin color pink. I think the old school purple is just a bit too much, but adding a dab of color to the otherwise green faces does wonders to accentuate Orruk faces (I think). To round off I snipped the tabs of the metal models (with a wink and a grin to the silly 'these things belong in a museum' collector types) and glued the entire unit to painted and prepared 32mm bases with PVA. I ended up painting the rims of the 'original ten's' bases as I hadn't done that yet. With this I finished my lot of thirty Orruk 'Arboyz. Now to wrap things up I decided to take a quick 'proud&bragging' shot of all the Greenskin models I took out of my project box in September of last year. They went from various (colorless) states of disrepair and have been painted now.

That's a nice bunch of models I no longer have to feel the vague 'I never painted them' shame about when I walk around my lead and plastic piles. 
Going by the 2017 General's Handbook that is 3,340 points worth of Greenskins. A bit more then I can field for a regular Wednesday night gaming club game. I think I should declare my painting slump officially over. I also think I don't need to finish the two giants Aleguzzler Gargants that form the rearguard of my 'let's paint as much from the project box as I can' ambition. But not painting those to as they are not really needed would involve rational thinking, not really useful in this hobby ;)

Monday, February 12, 2018

The Knight of Shrouds joins my undead horde

You've got to love a long buildup. Just before Christmas GW started hinting at Malign Portents hitting the Mortal Realms in Age of Sigmar (if you're not up-to-date on the background, I've got a primer here). Now as prelude to a worldwide campaign a new book has hit the shelves including four new models (a general each for Order, Destruction, Death and Chaos). Being an easy mark a gaming enthusiast I pre-ordered the book, dice, cards and the general for Death because, well, I think the model look incredibly cool. I've skimmed the book and it looks interesting. As I've decided to take my hobby up to 11 this year, I'm going to attempt to fill every space on the Wargame Hobby Bingo card Rob Hawkins updated this year. I used this as an excuse to go full throttle on the Knight of Shrouds.

GW managed to combine the menace of a Ring Wraith quite nicely with the ghostly appearance required for Night Haunt models. 
One of the spaces on the hobby bingo card is Buy a model and paint it within 48 hours. Assuming the day of receiving the miniature through mail order is equal to buying it, this one qualifies. I actually build, primed and painted it over the course of last Sunday. Long live a good blow dryer to speed things up. I used the Warhammer TV tutorial as the basis for the model, diverging by using an airbrush to get a bit more contrast out of the ghostly greenish robe and painting the scabbard red (I thought the GW one did not stand out enough).

One of my favorite models from the past years is the Cairn Wraith (strangely missing from the GW website at this moment). I think the Knight of Shrouds works perfectly as a commander for these guys.
Only a few more weeks until I move and can get ready to set up something more serious to take photos, in the meantime the beer table will have to suffice :). Still a lovely model, I'm quite curious what will happen when he hits the tabletop. In the meantime I should hop over to my local GW as I managed to miss the release of the Legions of Nagash Battle Tome in all the Malign Portents excitement. Up next I'll jump feet first into a true Oldhammer project that is way beyond my skill level :). Ah nostalgia, I think it's best when mixed with equal doses of novelty.

My Wargame Hobby Bingo so far, the original to this card can be found here
In the meantime my Bingo progress is doing quite nicely so far for a distracted start of the year. I stamped the Buy a model and paint it within 48 hours for this one. The scratch build scenery is the building on my Space Port. I added a group of Ironjawz Brutes to my Greenskins army (and took them out killing the same evening), painted a Wight King that had been languishing in basecoat for at least two years and painted my first Dark Eldar by slapping some color on an ancient Archon.

Friday, February 9, 2018

Landing area terrain for 40K (and other sci-fi games) finished

I'm quite sure I'm not the only one starting out projects with an enormous amount of enthusiasm, only to find it all gone halfway through. This generic landing area is an extreme example of this kind of project. It started out with me wanting to make my own space ship like in this post at Warlord Games. I changed the tune slightly when I saw two discounted Star Wars toys while doing the December shopping for the family. Now, having spend some money on it, I was committed to making a small space port. Well long story short it is (more or less) finished.

A group of Space Wolves scouts checks out the new cargo ships. Where are all the inhabitants? 
The idea was to wink back at Rogue Trader and just build a nice outpost. I spotted a control building over on the Maelstrom's Edge online store and as I already had a few of those excellent terrain sprues I decided to just steal the concept from the art there.

Never mind creativity, there's noting wrong with stealing other peoples ideas when you like them, is there?
The wheels and big barrels are part of some excess toys I bought at a thrift store. The smaller barrels are from the old GW set. The plasma generators are made from the containers for (disgusting) bubble gum.

I think those wheels orignaly formed part of an Action Man vehicle.
The large radar dish was rather stupidly simple to put together. It held ribbon used to decorate gifts handed out at my wedding. I combined it with more thrift store toy parts and a watch tower used for plastic army men.

The radar dish was put together so quickly, I felt quite ashamed when the wife complimented me on it.
At this point I was feeling a bit bored with the entire project, but it was also taking up rather a lot of space. I decided over the past few weeks (in between massive bouts of Subnautica) to just pray and spray the whole project away. All of it was basecoated using rattlecan gun-fu as outlined in an older post here.

Making little posters is a lot of fun, I've printed up a lot of old WW2 propaganda posters that seem fitting to the setting. All the way to the right is a scan from an old Tyranid codex. 
I decided to go for slightly less lazy then previously and add a top coat to most buildings. Seeing this video over at the Tabletop Miniouns channel on YouTube helped inspire that as well. By the way, it is bloody hard to get rid of all the salt if you use the salt and hairspray method shown here (I may have oversalted the dish though).

I love these bubblegum containers, they are just made for sci-fi.
Now I should put more detail on the space ships (guns and engines come to mind), and I might paint more detail on the barrels and the generators. But I'm not going to (for now). Because for right now I'm quite done with this piece and I think it is 'ok for now'.

Another close up of the Action Man wheels, glued together crookedly in some factory somewhere.
So here are a few more pictures as I quickly descend back to the Mortal Realms. GW is dropping a rather interesting looking supplement and I've already seen one idea I'm going to steal quite shamelessly as soon as I'm able.

I love the window on the control tower, everything went right painting that one. It made the utter failure to replicate the technique on the windows of the space ships all the more miserable. 
In the meantime, hope you enjoy the sight of this collection of scenery. I'll probably neaten it up at a later point (most likely around the time I've painted all my miniatures ;) ).

I should plan a game around this scenery set somewhere soon. Pity it is rather too fragile to store over at the gaming club. 

Wednesday, January 31, 2018

Freezing green stuff

I made the joyous mistake of purchasing a new computer game called Subnautica. Set in a science fiction background you take the role of a lone survivor crash landed on an ocean world. It basically combines survival games with a fascinating storyline. All well and good, but it does take a humongous bite out of my painting time. So a bit of a boring update this week as I waste my spare time swimming in a fictitious ocean. Green stuff, also known as Kneadite, we all know it and (some of us) love it. I buy mine in 36 inch rolls through an e-bay trader called Trolltrader. Unfortunately Green Stuff has a shelf life and with my limited sculpting ability it usually starts going a bit tough around the time I'm halfway through a roll. As tough a the forgotten (and right up there with 'sand' overpriced) pack of Green Stuff at your local GW. I usually turn my green stuff into sand bags when it starts to go. With the arrival of a new supply I thought 'time for an experiment'.

I should not have basecoated buildings quite so close to my ruler...
I read somewhere on a Facebook sculpting group (yes it begins with a dream (and usually ends with waking up)) about freezing Green Stuff. Apparently freezing helps keep green stuff fresh and the advice is to just unfreeze the limited amount you need and keep the rest well frozen. I'm going to be doing just that. Unfortunately I'm low on squeeze bags (no idea what these are actually called). So I opted for sixteen strips measuring about five centimeters (two inches) each (the bagged ten centimeter strip is for direct use).

Running out of baggies, I am definitely not a druk dealer (or a very successful one).
After sticking them in separate bags, I collected the lot in a bigger bag.
Small baggies in bigger bag.
And stuck this in a drawer in the freezer (that most definitely should be de-iced and cleaned, but that is for another time.
Bigger bag in freezer drawer (mental note: come summer, clean freezer).
I'll see in about six months whether this has worked or not. Expect another riveting update around that time ;). Now back to my computer game addiction, hopefully I'll shake it off in time to finish my first squad of flying Dwarves around the time of the next update.

Yes I should be painting, but look at this!

Thursday, January 25, 2018

Orruk Brutes, ready to be unleashed

Yesterday I found myself with an unexpected day off. A pleasant surprise I used to catch up on my paintwork. As part of the 'Finish the Orruks Project' I started last year I glued these five Orruk Brutes together. To help with painting I did not glue the breastplates on (except for the one wielding the comically oversized double handed blade Gore-choppa). Over the course of the last few months one of the breastplates went missing. Luckily this weekend I found said breastplate at the bottom of a box of Vallejo paints. Taking it as a sign I decided to finish the Brutes before more parts could go missing.

My Orruk Brutes are ready to smash and kill.
I love the Ironjawz battletome. These hulking brutes armor themselves by banging metal into shape with their bare hands. They seek out the biggest creatures on the battlefield to pound them into dust. And see any large obstacle as a reason to 'mob up' and take it down. My first encounter with Orruk Brutes was when I foolishly charged a Troggoth Hag into a unit of five, only to watch it fly back into my ranks in small bits.

This model lacks its own jaw, having replaced it with an iron prosthetic. 
What I like a bit less about the Ironjawz is the painting style GW has decided on. The bright yellow color looks a bit too 40K for my taste. But that's the joy of painting (Warhammer style), you can give your own twist to models. For my Brutes I decided on the same look as the Ironjaw Megaboss I painted last year. That is to say: rusty metal plates and fresh blood.

If the claw hits the club hits automatically, making this brute a real killing machine. The one with the Gore-choppa gets extra range and damage.
The Brutes are covered with thick metal plates. I painted these Leadbelcher, picking some trusty German Grey for the pants (a nice and neutral deep grey) and painting the skin is Vallejo Goblin Green washed. I covered the models in a fat slosh of Agrax Earthshade. After the Eartshade dried I layered the skin with 50/50 Goblin Green/GW Nurgling Green and highlighted with pure Nurgling Green.

Another shot of the Gore-choppa wielder, this model is harder to paint then the rest as you can't practically leave the breastplate off before painting. 
For the armor I loaded my airbrush with a lot of flow improver and a small drop of a purple (Vallejo Imperial Blue Game Air) adding small patches of semi-transparant blueish-purple to some places. I repeated this proces with Vallejo Rust and Vallejo Orange. Then I allowed the models to dry. Next up for the armor was a light drybrush with Ironbreaker followed by a selective edge highlight with Stormhost Silver.

I love the intimidating pose of the Orruk with the two axes.
Teeth and most bandage straps holding the armor in place where painted Zandri Dust, followed by Agrax Earthshade and highlighted with Ushabti Bone. I then selectively washed bits with Gryphonne Sepia to break the monotony. I also watered down a bit of Dryad Bark and washed other bandages with that for the same reason.

Last in the line is mr. Barefoot the dual sword wielder. Somewhere in the Ironjaw battletome is a hint that barefooted Orruks are smarter then their shoe wearing counterparts. No idea of that is an in-joke, a reference I don't get or just one of those wink/smile things to spice up the battletome.
The bases are a bit too simple for my taste, but I wanted to bring the models to table directly after painting them (and succeeded) so I went for Vallejo Dark Earth Paste painted with watered down Dryad Bark and drybrushed with Tyrant Skull. I added some Gamers Grass tufts and flowers. Although I bought the flowers for my Highborn Aelfs I love adding them to Destruction bases. It causes a nice clash between base and model.

A shot of the back, the daylight reflects a bit more of the metal look then you usually see on the table, you'll just have to take my word that these guys look quite rusty and dirty.
Last but not least was adding blood with a technique based on the by now often mentioned tutorial of Tale of Painters. I diverged slightly from and used the following steps (allow time to dry between each step).

  1. Splash a random pattern of Reikland Fleshshade Gloss. 
  2. Repeat step 1.
  3. Mix 30/70 GW Evil Sunz Scarlet with Vallejo Smoke, water it down to create a wash and add it randomly to the patterns made in step 1 and 2.
  4. Mix Vallejo Smoke with Tamiya Clear Red (about 40/60) and apply as the first 'solid' layer of blood'. Remember less is more.
  5. Add pure Tamiya Clear Red sparingly to get some fresh blood on the weapon.
  6. Add small drops of Blood for the Blood god. After applying use an old brush to stiple the applied Blood for the Blood got around a bit (it is a rather thick paint).  

The advantage of this technique over just applying some Blood for the Blood God is that details on the weapons don't get covered and the blood pattern looks a bit more realistic and interesting (IMHO).

My Brutes and Megaboss form a small but deadly formation.
Here's a last shot of the Orruk Brutes accompanied by my Megaboss. During the fight with Kharadron Overlords yesterday my Megaboss got reduced to 1 wound by taking (among other things) a cannon blast to the chest. Then he was cut down as I discovered Arakanaut Admirals get to strike first if they want to. The brutes on the other hand made short work of one (silly weak) Arkanaut Company and a unit of Endrinriggers. They did show their main disadvantages as well (a 4 inch move means it takes time to get into 'the thick of it' and a low bravery means the unit runs after taking a few casualties). I'll finish off with a quick shot of the Brutes getting stuck in (top-left).

Still smelling of fresh paint, my Brutes wandered into battle the same evening. Also pictured is a finished Orruk Warboss with Battle Banner I finished yesterday as well. I'll put him up some other time on the blog.

Tuesday, January 23, 2018

Science fiction feature show style Dark Eldar Archon

Yesterday I not only managed to catch up on the weekly episodes of the excellent The Great War series on YouTube, I also finished this classic Dark Eldar Archon. This model is from the 'let's teleport down to the planet and raid the adult store'-era of the Dark Eldar. I have to admit to not liking most of the models in this range (kudos to mr. Phil Kelly for reinventing the Dark Eldar). This model however is one of the exceptions to the rule. It has just the right amount of camp to really appreciate it (and to make me want to watch the Rocky Horror Picture Show again).

You have got to appreciate the I'm here and I like camp attitude this model expresses. 
I tried three new techniques on the model (and failed at at least one old one). First off I tried painting an eye by going for black and dotting in white. Thanks to my brilliant photography (stop laughing in the back row!) it is hardly visible. I did however find my hand steady enough to go for a bit of an exaggerated goth look befitting this model. The second technique I tried was to apply makeup as a glaze. And even though the pink is quite pronounced on the picture it still works and it is a lot more subtle in real life. So that is a technique I will try again.

Not mentioned in the running text: the lazy OSL on the staff and pistol failed rather miserably. Reason: turned out I forgot to properly clean my airbrush after spraying the Wight King with varnish. 
The third technique I tried was shading red with blue. I should've known it would work (as it works for others, but I was still quite amazed and pleased at how well a bit of blue shades red. Now please stop giggling all you fancy color theory pro painters out there. On the other hand, please carry on, we all have to learn somewhere.

Blue works excellently as a shade for red. Everybody else probably knew this already, but now I do too.
The red started out as GW Khorne Red build up with Wazdakka Red and highlighted with Squig Orange. The shadows where created with a mix of Khorne Red and Vallejo Prussian Blue I thought it all looked a bit muted, then I found a forgotten bottle of P3 Red Ink among my paints. I though 'what the hell, why not'. Well...it took a bit of dabbing with a q-tip to tone down the first wave, but on drying no one can argue that this dress is not red!

Yeah the make-up works on this model. I'm a happy painter!
As an aside I first painted her hair blue (in keeping with one of the colors used on the model) but it looked awful so in the end I repainted it to blond. It is my private very humble opinion that all elves (both high and dark) should default to blond as befitting their ridiculous racial superiority complex. But I digress...All in all a fun model to paint, maybe once I get around to painting my Ynnari warband I'll actually field her on the table as well. Now what to do with the remaining lot of 'former adult store employees posing as Dark Eldar' on the leadpile? Ah well, let them rest for a bit longer....